The Scottish 4,000’ers
Duathlon
Two big events, one extra-long day
2004
Words: Olly Stephenson
Photos: Chris Davies
An hour into the deepest sleep
of my life I am urgently shaken awake… “Come
on Olly, it’s time to go”. It takes a few seconds to
get my bearings, then I start to giggle with the adrenaline. Jane
is in labour, and from past experience this means our baby will
be here quicker than a cyclist on steroids.
It is 4am Thursday 9th September 2004, and here I am snatching
a few hours sleep after a full day at work and a very late night
dropping cars, bikes and food off across half of Scotland. “Come
on Olly, it’s time to go”. It takes a few seconds to
get my bearings, then I start to giggle with the adrenaline. Chris
Davies, Nick Wallis, Phil Bent and I are about to launch into the
inky blackness, on our first few steps up Ben Nevis. My body instinctively
knows it is going to be a long day…
Our plan is to complete all of the 4,000’ mountains in Scotland
in a day, which will require 31 miles and 13,000’ ascent of
running in the Ben Nevis and Cairngorm mountains, linked via 61
miles of cycling. We are aiming to follow the route taken by the
official Scottish 4,000-ers duathlon (i.e. west-east). The only
minor snag is we’ve missed the start of the race by 15 months,
so today we’ll be doing it by ourselves and self-supported. “But
hey – how hard can this thing be?” Nick chortles as
we leave the bunkbarn.
We trot up the Ben as keen as dogs released from kennels. There
is no danger of breaking any records today, but it feels so good
to be out here, to be running, to be alive, with a million stars
twinkling overhead. We also have the smug satisfaction knowing that
however tough it gets today, it is still going to be better than
a day in the office, which is where we all should have been had
it not been for this hastily arranged last-minute mission.
The Ben passes relatively easily, with the most stunning dawn revealing
itself slowly near the summit in majestic oranges, reds and yellows.
On the summit itself are two German tourists, one of whom is lying
motionless and mute across the apex of the shelter’s roof,
looking like he’s just landed there in some tragic parachute
failure. Phil’s suggestion seemed a bit more plausible: “maybe
he died in a blizzard, and he was deposited there when the snows
melted in the spring?” Either way the dawn is so captivating
that both groups understand exactly why the others have hiked through
the night to be there. Encouragingly, the dawn looks like it is
indeed turning into the cloudless wall-to-wall sunshine that was
forecast.
We pick our way along the jagged and rocky Carn Mor Dearg arete,
looking back to see the imposing north face of the Ben rising up
1,000’ from the valley. It all looks so benign in summer,
and it is hard to correlate this scene with winter climbing trips
in whiteouts so complete that you rope up on flat sections in case
you walk off a cliff.
Beyond Carn Mor Dearg we dip down before contouring up a long steep
hillside to the top of Aonach Beag. The ground from here to Aonach
Mor is like the most perfect grassy Lakeland fells, and it is a
real joy to run. On our way down to the Nevis Ski range we run alongside
the ski-tows and then much to my excitement we run down the mountain
bike trail. Even mad-for-it Chris (Mr.Mountain-bike) is having audible
palpitations at the size of the drop-offs, and we both figure it’d
take cajones the size of grapefruit to ride this particular puppy.
It is most certainly not built for your standard, faint-hearted
non-grapefruit endowed male.
A quick change of clothes and a wedge of sandwiches and we are
off on the bikes, rolling effortlessly over smooth tarmac, with
the sun on our faces. The road ahead is quiet, giving us plenty
of time to appreciate just how beautiful the A86 is when you are
not in a car, with Lochs and peaks and autumnal trees rolling past
like a Hollywood cliché of Scotland.
Strong contractions had come out of nowhere, and from past experience
we knew we had to get our skates on as the baby would be here in
a matter of minutes (our last baby took just 45 minutes). We hurriedly
arrange for our friend Sarah to come and look after the sleeping
kids whilst we head to the hospital. My gaze is pretty much glued
to the white line in the road, focussing on not hitting any bumps,
staying calm, reassuring Jane. In my mind’s eye I keep getting
flashbacks to the cycle ride along the A86. Thank god we are doing
this journey in a car. Jane hops out at the hospital, stopping to
brace herself against a desk with the contractions. By the time
I park the car and make it to her side things are well advanced.
She isn’t going to make it to the delivery ward. 17 minutes
after entering the hospital Jane gives birth on the floor of triage.
Even the midwives looked stunned at the speed of it all.
Jane and I have four hours of paradise with our new baby girl,
Isobel (Bella) Rose Stephenson, and as we stand to leave at 4.30am
the midwife hesitates, apologises and then says sheepishly “I
hate to mess you around, but let’s keep mum and baby here
until the morning, just to be on the safe side. Your baby’s
breathing is a little bit laboured, but there’s nothing to
worry about. This is just a precaution”. I head home alone
to take over from our babysitting friend Sarah. Ten minutes after
leaving the hospital things take an abrupt turn.
We cycle as a team, taking it in turns at the front, which feels
very efficient, and our average speed for the journey is over 17mph.
This is road cycling paradise, made all the more pleasant with minimal
mid-week traffic. Free from any race-day constraints, we even have
the cheek to stop in the Newtonmore café for lunch – what
luxury! We wobble out half an hour later looking like typical package-holiday
Brits, with our tummies bulging over the top of our lycra cycling
shorts and our skin a delicate shade of Torremolinos pink.
The race gods must have been aware of our lunch transgression,
for shortly afterwards I get a puncture, and, more worryingly I
start to feel very sick. The peddling from here to Glen Feshie is
a formality, but my legs become leaden, and just about every light
on my dashboard comes on. Mercifully Phil notices and he and the
others heroically let me draft behind them for the last five miles,
otherwise I’d probably still be out there cycling now. I suspect
my relaxed attitude to cycle training (e.g. no ride further than
25 miles in the last 3 years) had not really helped matters.
The bike to run transition at Glen Feshie is fairly surreal. The
others are chatting and laughing, but I still feel pretty shell-shocked.
Food is a struggle, changing shoes is a challenge and my eyes are
not seeing straight. Mosquitoes are everywhere but they seem like
the least of my worries right now and I scarcely notice them.
Ten minutes after I leave the hospital Bella turns blue, her body
limp and lifeless. “If 10 out of 10 means death, then your
baby is at 8 out of 10 right now” the Consultant says. Jane
is hurredly told to kiss her goodbye, and our baby is raced off
to the most serious end of Intensive care.
By the time I make it back to hospital our baby is in a state of
suspended animation in an incubator, with lines going into every
one of her tiny limbs, and machines beeping and pinging and flashing
like a garish amusement arcade. She has septicaemia, pneumonia,
and possible meningitis too, all contracted within 4 hours of birth
from a particularly virulent strain of group-b streptococcus bacteria.
This is complete sensory overload and Jane and I look around the
room utterly shell-shocked, reeling as if a nail-packed bomb has
just exploded in our faces. Bella looks so small, so vulnerable,
and we feel so completely powerless to do anything to help.
As we get ready to leave Glen Feshie I simply cannot allow myself
to think of the miles ahead. Exactly 20 minutes after arrival
we run out of the car park, heading for Cairn Toul; judging by
the number of folds in the map it is going to be a long way.
Three hours later we reach the base of Cairn Toul’s final
summit mound, all feeling the worse for wear. It has indeed been
a long way, over tiring ground. I am still feeling out of sorts
and distinctly sick. The last couple of hundred feet to the top
looks like it will take an eternity, and for me this is pretty much
the last straw. I pull out the map to look for retirement options.
Phil is having similar thoughts. With the map spread in front of
us the reality of our situation slowly begins to sink in… we
are now in one of the remotest spots in the UK, and even the easiest
route out of here will involve another ~4 hours of toil at our current
speed. To compound matters my watch tells me I have 12 hours to
make it back to Edinburgh to catch a dawn flight to London for work.
Despite the despondency I figure that I won’t get another
chance like this to finish the Scottish 4,000’s for a long,
long time; summer is all but over and Jane is due to give birth
in 3-4 weeks. It is one of those classic now or never moments.
In the end I decide to press on with Chris and Nick, while Phil
opts for the low route back. To Phil’s credit he’s done
really well to get this far, based on just 16 miles running in the
previous 6 months (done in one single race!).
Activity eases the knot in my stomach a little, and I recover enough
strength to catch myself enjoying the spectacular situations between
Cairn Toul, Angel’s Peak and Braeriach. At times it feels
like we are daredevils walking along the edge of an aeroplane’s
wing, with precipitous views stretching for miles down into the
Lairig Ghru, with it’s silver ribbon-like river glinting in
the sunshine. We are high enough that our next summit, Ben Macdui,
looks tantalisingly close – a Giant would stride across there
in just one step from Braeriach – but for us lesser mortals
it involves a bit more effort descending and re-ascending the best
part of 2,000’. The dying rays of sunlight egg us on, and
we are rewarded with a simply stunning dusk scene from the top of
Ben Macdui, with a thread of pure gold spun across the horizon.
Mountain days do not get any better than this.
We stop just long enough for me to be violently sick (Chris and
Nick said it sounded like a jet plane!), and then all of a sudden
the exhaustion and discomfort of the last 4-5 hours vanishes and
I feel fantastic and absolutely bounding with energy. So next time
you are feeling tired try being sick – it really works!! The
route across the plateau feels like a breeze, and even in the dark
with me navigating we manage to stay on course. Chris continues
to bounce across the hillside in his effortless half-man, half-gazelle
fashion, but Nick starts to drop behind in the last few hundred
feet up Cairngorm. He is normally rock solid in the hills, always
maintaining his humour to the last, and here he is silently sinking
into his own world. Chris and I wait anxiously for him, and discover
a pretty shattered looking Nick falling asleep on his feet, hallucinating. “I’m
doing OK”, Nick says, “but this knee-deep, fluorescent
purple grass is a bit unusual”. With a little encouragement
he soon returns to normal, and we pass swiftly over the top of our
final summit in pitch black.
Finally we make it back to finish in the Cairngorm ski car park,
feeling like it is on the edge of what we can manage mid week with
no training. The race itself finishes with a 4-mile downhill ride
to the Norwegian Stone at Glenmore Lodge, but our bikes are still
in Glen Feshie so this is not an option (thankfully!). It has been
a magnificent day out, with excellent company, and it’s fair
to say I’ve never seen Scotland looking so beautiful.
It is now 11pm, we’ve been on the go almost continuously
for 17.5 hours, and my work flight is only 6.5 hours away. We are
all pretty shattered. The boys stop for dinner in Aviemore and Chris
falls asleep half way through his meal; Nick is so tired he leaves
his camera in the restaurant and loses his watch at the campsite.
I shamefully ignore all sensible advice about driving while tired,
and with a can of Red Bull inside me, drive home alone. A quick
pit stop at home to wash and sleep for an hour, and then I am walking
out of the front door on my way to the airport (it is now Friday
10th September). Much to my surprise Jane comes rushing out behind
me. Initially I think she is being all romantic, but even Jane isn’t
foolish enough to wake at 5.30am just to kiss me goodbye.
“ My waters have broken”, she says with impressive composure.
It is all the more impressive when you consider how difficult it
would have been for Jane a few hours earlier with me in the Cairngorms,
or an hour later with me in London. For some reason work no longer
seems so important, and I stay behind to take care of Jane and the
kids. Her contractions do not start all day, and we collapse into
bed at 10pm. Within minutes I am well into the deepest sleep of
my life.
An hour later I am urgently shaken awake by Jane, and we race to
the hospital.
The neonatal staff at the New Royal Infirmary work absolute miracles
with Bella. After a few days she begins responding to the antibiotics,
and eight days later Bella comes home 100% fit and healthy. We are
happy beyond belief, and for the first time in my life I appreciate
just how fragile small babies really are. Luckily they are also
built pretty resiliently as well.
One thing’s for sure, the Scottish 4,000’s is a challenging
and immensely rewarding day out. But it’s a small fraction
of the effort required to give birth and to see your new-born so
ill, and it’s certainly nothing like as rewarding as having
a healthy baby girl.
Our sincerest thanks to all the neonatal staff at the New Royal
Infirmary. We owe our daughter’s life to you.
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